Like My Grandmother Used to Make: Celebratory Kashmiri Biryani
For those of us far from our ancestral homelands, connecting to heritage is an act of resilience, joy, and community. This piece explores Sadia Sikandar connection to food, the role it plays in preserving Pakistani culture, and how the culinary traditions of the Kashmiri region bring people together with this Celebratory Kashmiri Biryani.
Sadia’s biryani, homemade.
By Sadia Sikandar
I chose to share this recipe because all my friends are from different countries – Syria, Afghanistan, Yemen, Turkey, Italy, India, Zimbabwe, Sudan, Eritrea, Ethiopia – and they all love it.
In Pakistan, we often prepare biryani to mark moments of celebration, whether it is a joyful event, a milestone of success, or a wedding. It is more than just a dish; it is a symbol of festivity, togetherness and tradition. Each province adds its unique touch to the recipe.
My parents were born in Kashmir, a region in Pakistan where food is considered an art form. My own connection with biryani is deeply personal, rooted in the Kashmiri traditions of my family.
my mother lost her mother when she was only five years old: afterward she was lovingly raised by her aunts and uncles. They taught her the skills of running a household, including how to cook. Although I had limited free time, I was fortunate to learn from her the art of making biryani, one of my favourite dishes.
In Kashmiri families cooking is more than a task: it’s a craft passed down through generations. This biryani recipe carries the essence of my grandmother’s legacy, handed down to her children, who in turn shared it with me.
The aroma of fragrant spices, the vibrant colours of the infused rice and the rich layers of flavour brings families and communities together, creating memories that last a lifetime.
Ingredients
Serves 4 to 5 people
3 tbsp of fresh minced ginger
3 tbsp minced garlic
1/2 tbsp of ground turmeric
2 green chillies - finely chopped
1 green chilli - sliced
3 tbsp of cumin seeds
2 small cinnamon sticks
4 cloves
8 black peppercorns
2 black cardamon pods
2 star anise
3 bay leaves
1 box of National Bombay biryani/masala seasoning (you can buy this in local asian shops)
2 large red onions, finely chopped
Cooking oil of your choice
1 tub of plain yoghurt
1 lemon
6 big tomatoes, chopped
2 cups of basmati rice
1 small chicken cut into pieces
4 dried prunes
Some saffron (or the cheaper yellow/orange powdered food colouring)
A handful of fresh mint leaves
A pinch of salt
Method
1. In a large bowl, mix a few tbsp of yogurt with half a tbsp of turmeric, 1 tbsp of garlic, 1 tbsp of ginger, and the 2 chopped chilis (or less if you don’t like heat). Then add the chicken and stir to coat. Cover and leave to marinate for between 30 minutes and 2 hours before cooking. This will tenderise the meat and infuse it with flavour.
2. Add some oil to a large saucepan over a medium heat and fry the chopped onion. Once softened, add 2 tbsp of minced garlic and 2 tbsp of minced ginger.
3. Stir and, after a couple of minutes, add 1 tbsp of cumin seeds, a cinnamon stick, 4 cloves, one star anise, 4 black peppercorns, 1 cardamon pod and a couple of bay leaves.
4. Add the chopped chicken and fry, stirring until the chicken is lightly browned.
7. Add the chopped tomatoes, then some more yogurt (approximately equal to the amount of tomatoes), the prunes, and around half a pack of biryani spice mix (depending on how spicy you like it).
7. Add a squeeze of lemon and simmer on a medium heat for 20 minutes.
8. Rinse the rice under cold water until the water runs clear, then partly cook the basmati rice (in boiling water or a rice cooker) until it’s about 50-70 percent done, making sure to add a pinch of salt to the water – and set aside. This ensures the rice doesn’t overcook while steaming. Check the rice packaging for cooking instructions to be sure how long it will take.
9. Meanwhile, in another saucepan add some oil (until a thin layer covers the whole bottom of the pan) and toast 2tbsp cumin seeds, a cinnamon stick, 2 cloves, 1 star anise, 4 black peppercorns, 1 black cardamon pod and 1 small bay leaf.
10. Add the partly cooked rice to the pan and stir.
11. Now add the rice directly into the pot with the chicken, mixing them together. Stir gently to combine, ensuring the rice is evenly distributed with the chicken and sauce. The rice will absorb the flavors.
12. Add the saffron or a small amount of food colouring at the end (when using powdered food colouring mix it with a small amount of water before adding to the dish) to tint the rice orange. Decorate with mint leaves, sliced green chilli and slices of lemon.
13. Cover the lid of the pot with a tight fitting lid (and/or cover with foil to prevent any steam escaping) and leave it to cook on a low to medium heat until the rice is fully cooked (around 10-20 minutes of steaming depending on the type of rice).
14. Once the cooking time is up, let the biryani rest for 10-15 minutes before opening the lid to allow the flavours to fuse together.
Tips
a homemade mint sauce makes for a fresh cooling accompaniment to your biryani. To create this, grind mint with some green chillis and add this mixture to some plain yogurt.