Heritage tour around Govanhill: Take a meander through local history
Govanhill has a fascinating history. Stories upon stories are written in its many tenement homes. Fragments of its rich heritage are also revealed by a tour around some of its better known buildings. This map follows the route of a walking tour around the neighbourhood led by local historian Bruce Downie.
By Bruce Downie | Photos by Laura Vroomen and Iain McLellan
This article is written by local history walking tour we participated in, led by Bruce Downie, author of Loved and Lost: Govanhill’s Built Heritage as well as 99 Calder Street: A History of Govanhill Baths and Washhouse. Both books are available from govanhillbaths.com
Begin at Queen’s Park railway station.
Queen’s Park train station. 492 Victoria Road G42 8PQ. Opened 1886
Queen's Park Train Station.
This forms part of Scotland’s first suburban railway line. Originally, the plan was to have a platform that connected Victoria Road and Pollokshaws Road, but that proved too ambitious.
However, the track between Queen’s Park and Crosshill had to be built under the tenement houses on the east side of Victoria Road, which had only been constructed a few years previously. Those houses were propped up while the line was constructed.
Exit the station onto Victoria Road. Turn to the right.
2. Betfred, 498 Victoria Road G42 8RL. Opened c.1889
Betfred, Victoria Road.
The curious Tudor-style building next to the entrance to the station, now a betting shop, was originally Queen’s Park Studio, premises of society photographer Charles Mitchell. Mitchell specialised in formal studio portraits. He also took the earliest known photo of Queen’s Park railway station from the window upstairs, which included a view of the now long-gone Hutchesontown Gardens.
Turn north on Victoria Road. The next location is just on the other side of the entrance to the station.
3. Inex Mica Hardware, 490 Victoria Road. G42 8YJ. Opened 1920.
INEX Home Hardware, Victoria Road.
What is now a hardware shop, was at one time, Crosshill Cinema, designed by architect Joseph Boyd. Unlike many cinemas of the time, this was a conversion of existing commercial premises rather than a new build. An elaborate classical façade was created to face Victoria Road, which was unfortunately removed when the cinema closed in 1952. A remnant of that façade can still be seen on the side of the building facing the train station, including an inscription with the architect’s name.
Continue north on Victoria Road. As you’re walking, look at the wall above the row of shops, to notice the hooks that once held tramlines which crisscrossed the streets – you’ll see one above the Victoria Road Street sign on the corner of Calder St. Turn right and cross to the other side at the traffic lights. Head down Calder Street.
4. Govanhill Baths. 99 Calder Street G42 7RA. Opened 1917.
Govanhill Baths, Calder Street.
Originally known as Govanhill Baths and Washhouse. Construction started in 1913 and was scheduled to finish in 1915, but the outbreak of world war one delayed the opening by two years.
The washhouse or ‘steamie’ closed in the 1990s. The swimming pools were closed in 2001, despite a heroic effort by locals to keep the building open and the longest ever sit-in of a UK public building. Govanhill Baths Community Trust have secured significant funding towards renovating and reopening the building, but additional funds still need to be secured before it can reopen.
Turn back to Victoria Road. Cross over to the west side of Victoria Road and continue north until you reach Coplaw Street, turn left onto Coplaw Street.
5. Third Lanark Drill Hall. 41 Coplaw Street G42 7JE. Opened 1883, extended in 1903.
Above the entrance to the old Third Lanark Drill Hall.
The small, square tower near the west end of Coplaw Street, now a residential block, was originally part of the headquarters of the Third Lanarkshire Rifle Volunteers.
Volunteer regiments were formed all over the country in the 19th century, originally autonomous, they were gradually absorbed by the British Army. Around 1907, the Third Lanarkshire regiment became part of the 7th Cameronian Rifles, whose crest can still be seen above one of the windows, once the main entrance to the Drill Hall.
Return to Victoria Road. Cross over and head east along Coplaw Street
6. Samaritan House, 79 Coplaw Street G42 7JG. Opened 1896, extended in 1907, 1924 and 1936
Sign above the Samaritan House.
Samaritan House was originally part of the Glasgow Samaritan Hospital for Women. The money for its construction was raised by the local branch of the Ladies’ Auxiliary Association. In 1909, it would become known as the Royal Samaritan Hospital for Women. In 1948, it was taken over by the NHS and continued to function as a hospital until 1991. Today, Samaritan House is home to Govanhill Housing Association. The rest of the former hospital has been converted to residential accommodation.
Continue east. Turn right down Langside Road, pass Govanhill Park on your left, until you reach Govanhill Library on the right-hand side. This park was gifted to the burgh of Govanhill when it was formally incorporated into the city of Glasgow. The south east corner of the park was in the early 1890s a football stadium called Eglinton Park, home to a team called Glasgow Wanderers
7. Govanhill Library. 170 Langside Road G42 7JU. Opened 1906.
Govanhill Library, Langside Road.
This is the ninth of fifteen district libraries that were built in Glasgow in the early 20th century. The original plan was to build only eight libraries but a grant of £115,000 by philanthropist Andrew Carnegie made the additional libraries possible.
Famous psychiatrist R.D. Laing who grew up on a top floor flat on Ardbeg Street (look for the plaque to see which one) would look out his window, see the angel on the roof of the library, and dream of distant worlds and possibilities.
Turn left onto Calder Street, head east. Cross Cathcart Road and continue along Calder Street
8. Calder Street School. 311 Calder Street G42 7NQ. Opened 1875
Calder Street School.
The first public school and the oldest public building in the area. In 1889, the older pupils in Calder Street took part in the nationwide ‘schoolboy strike’. They walked out in protest at long hours and homework. The name of the school has changed more than once over the years, currently it is home to the Little Wonders Nursery.
Turn right onto Hollybrook Street, then first right onto Bankhall Street, go past the school playground, until you reach the next building on the right
9. Govanhill Picture House. 47 Bankhall Street G42 8SL. Opened 1926.
Govanhill Picture House, Bankhall Street.
This former cinema, with a unique, Egyptian-themed design, was imagined by architect Eric Sutherland, who was inspired by the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun just a few years earlier.
The cinema closed in 1961, then became a bingo hall for a few years. Most of the original interior has been demolished and now functions as a fabric store, but the original façade is protected.
Turn left onto Cathcart Road. Continue south until you reach Dixon Halls on the right-hand side.
10. Dixon Halls. 652 Cathcart Road G42 8AA. Opened 1879
Dixon Halls, Cathcart Road.
Originally known as Crosshill and Govanhill Burgh Hall, this was the gift of landowner William Dixon to the recently formed Burgh of Govanhill and the neighbouring Burgh of Crosshill. The boundary between Govanhill and Crosshill intersected the building, so the courtroom for each burgh was in the same building, but each room lay in different jurisdictions.